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Managing the Abandoned Newborn kitten

 
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MANAGING THE ABANDONED NEWBORN LITTER:

The first thing we need to tell you is that raising the orphaned newborn or litter is no small task.  This will involve feedings every 2 hours at first and then every 3-3.5 hours through the next 5 weeks.  You will lose sleep, get frustrated and will need to have some friends you can rely on to give you a break. 

Getting Started - First you will need some way of marking the babies to tell them apart.  This is critical at first to be able to monitor their weights and progress.  We use small hair scrunchies as a soft loose fitting collar.  Next you will need some bottles and feeding tubes.  We keep 3 of each on hand at all times.  You will also need KMR and/or NewBorn formula.  If you use the canned variety, dilute it 1/3 with water to avoid diarrhea with the babies.  Also you will need lots of wash cloths, towels and bedding with a heating pad.

Feeding Preparation -  Set your alarm to make sure of catching feeding times.  If you are late, the babies will be extra hungry and also be frustrated and more difficult to feed and settle down.  We fill up the baby bottles and place them in the refrigerator.  You will probably use less than half a bottle for 4 kittens at first and by the time you are at 2 1/2 weeks you will be using a whole bottle at each feeding.  We warm it in the microwave and test the temperature before feeding.  We also cut wholes in the nipples to allow milk to flow very freely.  They eat quicker and it is easier for us to express milk to get them used to the taste at first.  We keep cotton balls for peeing the babies and cleaning them.  We also keep Preparation H for irritation problems and swelling if we encounter it. 

Feeding the Babies -  We get the bottle, wash cloths, cotton balls and feeding tubes ready before we pick up the first baby.  We put them in a wash cloth to keep warm during the feeding and catch any formula that dribbles during meals.  We put the bottle in their mouths which can be difficult at first.  We express milk to give them the idea that this foreign thing provides the food.  They will take little breaks to get a breath and rest for a moment.  Sometimes we will feed them in two sections.  First a feeding, then potty them, clean them and dry them and feed them again just before putting them back on the warming pad. 

 Cleaning babies at each feeding - Mothers will clean and potty babies.  You need to take this on if the mother won't.  This involves taking a cotton ball and gently patting the general area to stimulate the babies to pee and poop.  They scream and wiggle like crazy, so be prepared.  They will also pee and poop some on their own while moving around their area so be prepared to give them a bath at least once per day.  We make a bath with some baby shampoo in the sink with slightly warmer than lukewarm water.  We also have a rinse after the bath to make sure all soap is removed.  We dry them very well before putting them back on the heating pad.  Be sure to change the pad they are on at each feeding to help keep the area and the kittens as clean as possible. 

Any screaming - means that the babies either aren't warm enough, are too warm and can't get away from it or are still hungry.  There have been times that I just fed them and they refuse to settle and I realize that one didn't get their tummy quite full.  When they are full and warm, they will go to sleep.

The second week - By now the babies will be into a routine.  They will look to you for food and not be quiet if you are late with the meal.  They can regulate their temperature a bit better but still need a warming pad.  Late this week  you are probably feeding at 3-3.5 hour intervals.  They will be getting very strong and tougher to hold still.  They will be peeing and pooping more and keeping them and their area clean will be a constant job.  You need to change the pad they are on with each feeding.  Also, spot bathing them with each feeding is critical to avoid "diaper rash".  This is the point where you will become tired and frustrated and it will seem like the weeks will never end.  Enlist the help of family and friends to get a break to catch up on sleep and recharge your batteries.  (It is not unusual to lose babies due to "fading kitten syndrome".  They just go down hill for no apparent reason.  Sometimes pedialyte will help and sometimes a bit of antibiotic (Clavamox) will help and other times nothing will.  Take heart, it happens)

The third week -  Now the babies will be quite mobile and really letting you know about feeding time.  You and the washing machine will be close friends and you can add some baby turkey to the formula to increase the time between feedings and introduce them to meat.  But do so slowly.  You may need to cut a larger opening in the nipple to accommodate this. At this point two kittens will consume an entire bottle filled to the top.  Late in the week you may be using two bottles each filled just over half way.  They will still rely on bottle feedings although you may be able to go 4 hours between feedings.  Let the babies be your guide.  Some feedings may be more frequent than others.  It all depends on them.  They will begin wanting to venture out while waiting for their turn to be fed.  Be sure to have them on a safe pad or area.  They will have accidents while motoring around. 

The fourth week - Little ones will really be motoring around now and it will be important to give them access to safe areas and stimulation.  You can begin to put them into the litter box and dig like their mother would.  I also begin to make a gruel of 2nd step baby formula, baby food turkey and their regular formula.  I put this on my finger and put it into their mouths.  It will take quite a while for them to get the idea.  You may try it numerous times and have no luck.  The babies will tell you when they are ready to accept food from other than their trusty bottle.  Don't expect lots of luck with the litter box either, but you need to begin to introduce them to it.  Baths and bedding changes are still keeping you busy.  Consistency and patience are the key during this time.

The fifth week - By now the babies are getting really good on their feet and will need a larger area with stimulating articles and things to climb on.  You can give them an Intra-nasal vaccine to boost immunity since they have no maternal antibodies.  Watch out for weepy eyes or sneezing and get the on antibiotics or lysine right away to help them cope.  Terramycin ointment is wonderful for eye irritations.  If this proves ineffective, as your vet about Gentomycin liquid.  This is step two in the treatment of eye problems in young babies.  Keep them clean with baths and bedding changes as often as required.  Continue with the litter box and gruel training until they get the idea.  Again consistency and patience are key.

The sixth week - You will probably see some result from your litter box training and introduction to the gruel by this point.  Continue to be vigilant with cleaning and making sure that each kitten is getting enough to eat.  It is typical for certain kittens to pick up on the food and litter quickly and others to be really slow to adapt.  Just keep at it!  You can introduce some Royal Canin "Baby Cat" Dry food.  The pieces are really small and easy for them to eat.  Just leave this out between gruel feedings to encourage them to eat on their own.  Baths will still be needed, although not as frequently as before.  Keep the bedding pads changed as often as necessary to keep the area and the kittens clean. 

The seventh week - By now, kittens should be pretty good at using the box at least some of the time.  They are probably eating some dry food and come running when you put the gruel down as well.  Baths will still be needed, although much less often and accidents should be happening less in the bedding as well.  Still plan lots of interaction with them to keep them socialized to people for more than just a meal.  You are almost out of the woods as far as care goes so hang on..

The eighth week - The kittens can go to their first vet visit and receive shots and a complete exam.  They should be pretty reliable with the litter and feeding time should be no problem by now.  If any of the kittens are having problems with either, just be patient and consistent and they will eventually get the idea.  You can stop any gruel feedings and go to canned food in addition to the dry available at all times.  Make sure water is available and plentiful.  Keep the litter box very clean so they will be encouraged to continue to use it. 

CONGRATULATIONS! - What seemed like an insurmountable task has been completed.  It is directly due to your intervention that these little ones are still alive and you can take pride in your roll in that.   Keep providing the babies with stimulation and things to do and toys to play with .  They will rely on you to point out what they should and should not be doing.  Be gentle but firm and you will have babies that will grow up to be wonderful companions.

 

We truly hope that this information has helped you understand the needs of the orphaned kitten.  We have experienced this once too often and had to rely on the assistance of friends and family to get us through.  In the end, we were always grateful for the little lives we were able to save. 

Resources for further information:  Raising the Orphaned Feral Kitten
  Raisng the Orphaned Kitten (by a vet)
  Orphan Kitten Care by Susan Little DVM

 

 
 
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